It has been way too long since the last post, but jt1 (Club President) has posted some very timely, well-written, informative content for snubs, holsters, ammo, etc. You will find this post at
J
http://thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=4973180&postcount=2660
This is a great post. jt1 has out done himself.
Saturday, October 4, 2008
Thursday, January 31, 2008
THE Mega Info Post
(Thanks to all 642 Heads for creating/completing this Master Outline.)
Accessories
......Speed Loaders
......Speed Strips
......Snap Caps
Ammunition
......JHP
......FMJ
......LSWC
From fiVe...
I recently found a great deal on a 1982 Model 36 (Chief's Special) with a 3" barrel. Since it is not +P rated, I decided to switch to 158gr lead semi-wadcutter NON +P from Georgia Arms. This stuff is plenty stout, and now I have ammo I can shoot in both my .38's.
......LSWCHP
......HD
......SD
......Practice
Grips
......Standard Grips
Click here for a great read by Mr. Stephen Camp.
......Laser Grips
......Working Grips
......BBQ Grips
Holsters
......Ankle
......Belly/Waist Band
......IWB
......OWB
......Pocket
......Bags and Others
Mantinance
......Assembly/Dissasembly
......Break In
......Cleaning
jad's cleaning tools and techniques
I clean my 642 after each range session or 6 weeks, whichever comes first . As a pocket gun, it does get rather crudded up from carry all the time.
I've been using Hoppes #9 for years and have only regular wear and tear on my finish. Foaming bore solvents are very harsh, so definitely stay away from those. I only use that stuff on stainless guns.
For in between cleanings, I just use a boresnake with a little hoppes #9 to get the pocket lint out of it. I then spray the outside with hoppes elite and wipe off any crud with a paper towel. I do put just a very, very thin amount of cleaning oil in the barrel and chambers to prevent corrosion, since this gun is carried a lot. I also wipe the outside with a silicone impregnated cloth.
For post range fun cleanings, I usually start by spraying the bore and chambers with Breakfree CLP and let it sit for 30 to 60 minutes. Great stuff. When I'm ready to start cleaning, I always remove the cylinder. Makes cleaning both the cylinder and gun MUCH easier. As long as you have the proper gunsmith screwdriver, all you have to do is remove the forward most sideplate screw, swing open the cylinder, and hold the cylinder in place while sliding the crane/yolk arm thingie out the front. That's it. And of course the crane arm itself will need some cleaning. It actually gets surprisingly filthy.
For the chambers (and only the chambers), I like to use a .40 cal bore brush. Really gets a lot of crap out that the 38/357 brush just doesn't get. Works especially well on guns chambered for 357 Magnum. I follow up with patches until it's clean. Of course, remember to clean under the ejector star. As for the cylinder face, I scrub it good with a hoppes #9 soaked stainless steel brush to get the heavy stuff off. Then I finish it with the lead away cloth.
Clean the barrel as anyone else would. I prefer using Hoppes #9. Only use a nylon brush on the aluminum frame. Stainless steel brushes will wreck the finish. When I finish cleaning the frame, I reinstall the cylinder. Reassembly is basically the reverse. Hold the cylinder about where it would be located when it is open, then slide the crane assembly onto the gun and cylinder.
I finish as described above: wipe it down with hoppes elite to remove any lingering crap, then finish with a silcone cloth.
About removing/installing the cylinder: The most important point to remember (in addition to using the proper gunsmith screwdriver) is to hold the cylinder in the open position, in place, while drawing the crane arm out from the gun. If you try to take the entire assembly out at once (cylinder and all) you are almost guaranteed to scratch the cylinder on the frame.
jad's lubing techniques
I already covered lubing the barrel and chambers. I put two drops on a patch, then run it through a couple of times. Then I run a dry patch through once to remove any heavy deposits. Keeps rust/corrision at bay.
I like to put a dab of oil on the front portion of the ejector rod, wiping away any excess with a patch. I then take the patch an wipe a thin residue on the back half (where the shell extractor is attached). Keep oil here to a minimum, as too much can attract unburnt powder and other junk, which could cause the cylinder to jam when firing.
I usually also put a single drop on the firing pin opening and wipe it all around the recoil plate (including the hand), and down to the cylinder stop. That's it for the oiling.
Since I remove the cylinder and crane assembly each time, I use a gun grease on the cylinder and yolk barrel, as it should last longer. Works for me.
As a side note, I like to use gun grease on the slide of my 1911 in place of oil.
......Lubrication
......Repair Issues
Warranty
......Contact S&W
......Address
......Phone
......Email
Miscellaneous
More good stuff from Stephen Camp.
Club Membership
Funny Musings
Accessories
......Speed Loaders
......Speed Strips
......Snap Caps
Ammunition
......JHP
......FMJ
......LSWC
From fiVe...
I recently found a great deal on a 1982 Model 36 (Chief's Special) with a 3" barrel. Since it is not +P rated, I decided to switch to 158gr lead semi-wadcutter NON +P from Georgia Arms. This stuff is plenty stout, and now I have ammo I can shoot in both my .38's.
......LSWCHP
......HD
......SD
......Practice
Grips
......Standard Grips
Click here for a great read by Mr. Stephen Camp.
......Laser Grips
......Working Grips
......BBQ Grips
Holsters
......Ankle
......Belly/Waist Band
......IWB
......OWB
......Bags and Others
Mantinance
......Assembly/Dissasembly
......Break In
......Cleaning
jad's cleaning tools and techniques
I clean my 642 after each range session or 6 weeks, whichever comes first . As a pocket gun, it does get rather crudded up from carry all the time.
I've been using Hoppes #9 for years and have only regular wear and tear on my finish. Foaming bore solvents are very harsh, so definitely stay away from those. I only use that stuff on stainless guns.
For in between cleanings, I just use a boresnake with a little hoppes #9 to get the pocket lint out of it. I then spray the outside with hoppes elite and wipe off any crud with a paper towel. I do put just a very, very thin amount of cleaning oil in the barrel and chambers to prevent corrosion, since this gun is carried a lot. I also wipe the outside with a silicone impregnated cloth.
For post range fun cleanings, I usually start by spraying the bore and chambers with Breakfree CLP and let it sit for 30 to 60 minutes. Great stuff. When I'm ready to start cleaning, I always remove the cylinder. Makes cleaning both the cylinder and gun MUCH easier. As long as you have the proper gunsmith screwdriver, all you have to do is remove the forward most sideplate screw, swing open the cylinder, and hold the cylinder in place while sliding the crane/yolk arm thingie out the front. That's it. And of course the crane arm itself will need some cleaning. It actually gets surprisingly filthy.
For the chambers (and only the chambers), I like to use a .40 cal bore brush. Really gets a lot of crap out that the 38/357 brush just doesn't get. Works especially well on guns chambered for 357 Magnum. I follow up with patches until it's clean. Of course, remember to clean under the ejector star. As for the cylinder face, I scrub it good with a hoppes #9 soaked stainless steel brush to get the heavy stuff off. Then I finish it with the lead away cloth.
Clean the barrel as anyone else would. I prefer using Hoppes #9. Only use a nylon brush on the aluminum frame. Stainless steel brushes will wreck the finish. When I finish cleaning the frame, I reinstall the cylinder. Reassembly is basically the reverse. Hold the cylinder about where it would be located when it is open, then slide the crane assembly onto the gun and cylinder.
I finish as described above: wipe it down with hoppes elite to remove any lingering crap, then finish with a silcone cloth.
About removing/installing the cylinder: The most important point to remember (in addition to using the proper gunsmith screwdriver) is to hold the cylinder in the open position, in place, while drawing the crane arm out from the gun. If you try to take the entire assembly out at once (cylinder and all) you are almost guaranteed to scratch the cylinder on the frame.
jad's lubing techniques
I already covered lubing the barrel and chambers. I put two drops on a patch, then run it through a couple of times. Then I run a dry patch through once to remove any heavy deposits. Keeps rust/corrision at bay.
I like to put a dab of oil on the front portion of the ejector rod, wiping away any excess with a patch. I then take the patch an wipe a thin residue on the back half (where the shell extractor is attached). Keep oil here to a minimum, as too much can attract unburnt powder and other junk, which could cause the cylinder to jam when firing.
I usually also put a single drop on the firing pin opening and wipe it all around the recoil plate (including the hand), and down to the cylinder stop. That's it for the oiling.
Since I remove the cylinder and crane assembly each time, I use a gun grease on the cylinder and yolk barrel, as it should last longer. Works for me.
As a side note, I like to use gun grease on the slide of my 1911 in place of oil.
......Lubrication
......Repair Issues
Warranty
......Contact S&W
......Address
......Phone
Miscellaneous
More good stuff from Stephen Camp.
Club Membership
Funny Musings
Tuesday, November 6, 2007
Part 2
On 11-5-2007, the first part of the club was closed and the "part 2" thread was opened.
642 Club - part 1: http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=138658
642 Club - part 2: http://thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=314422
642 Club - part 1: http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=138658
642 Club - part 2: http://thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=314422
Monday, August 6, 2007
Pocket Holsters
There are many good pocket holsters for the 642. Here is a short list:
Mika. I use this one. Robert Mika is known for a quality product at a great price with superb service. He makes a round-cut and a square-cut version. I'm liking my round-cut more and more every day.
Desantis Nemesis.
Uncle Mike's Size 3.
Kramer.
Mika. I use this one. Robert Mika is known for a quality product at a great price with superb service. He makes a round-cut and a square-cut version. I'm liking my round-cut more and more every day.
Desantis Nemesis.
Uncle Mike's Size 3.
Kramer.
Wednesday, July 18, 2007
Facts and Truthiness
The 642 Club Blog of Knowledge first appeared in the 642 Club as the UC642CJ--Uniform Code of 642 Club Justice (pg 136/post 3376). It was mentioned once more as the "642 Club Journal" (pg 140/post 3485).
Milestone posts:
1001 - 18 Oct 2006 (pg 41)
2001 - 16 Mar 2007 (pg 81)
3001 - 8 May 2007 (pg 121)
4001 - 6 Aug 2007 (pg 161)
5001 - 3 Nov 2007 (pg 201)
1001 - 27 Jan 2007 (pg 41) - Part Duex
Official 642 Edicts 642 Club Edicts are proclaimed for a variety of reasons, but they are mainly used to assign official titles to well-deserving members.
jad0110: Sir Jad 642 Club Banker (pg 60/#1484)
Nematocyst: Sir Nem Official Pollster (pg 105/#2606)
ARTiger: Sir ARTiger Official Ammo Tester (pg 107/#2669)
TEL: Sir CalcuTEL Official Tabulator (pg 109/#2709)
Lady Gunwife: Official Club Auditor (pg 113/#2817)
Headless : Official Club Cartographer,
Geographer, Google Admin (pg 122/#3037)
Vanzpp: 500th member of the 642 Club (pg 140/#3485)
jt1: Official Club Counter & Firearms Inspector (pg 148/#3677)
ugaarguy: Official K-Frame Club Ambassador (pg 152/#3797)
Old Fuff: Club Revolver Expert (pg 153/#3818)
Stephen A. Camp: Expert Tester/Evaluator (pg 153/#3818)
MassMark: Creator of our beloved title "642 Head"
DAdams: 642 Club Master Sergeant at Arms (pg 157/#3913)
JUSTBOB: Official 642 Club Crimson Trace Laser Expert (pg 184/#4593)
roundtop: 642nd member of the 642 Club (part 2/pg 21/#505)
Other Notable Things
Robert Mika (aka cheeseinwisconsin) posted to THR
(pg 106/#2634)
The official 642 Club Quadratic equation is
∑(((642 + CT + Mika) + Bianchi²) + 642 Club) = 642 Head
(pg 195/#4871)
http://www.the642club.com/ - will take you to the first post in the 642 Club.
Milestone posts:
1001 - 18 Oct 2006 (pg 41)
2001 - 16 Mar 2007 (pg 81)
3001 - 8 May 2007 (pg 121)
4001 - 6 Aug 2007 (pg 161)
5001 - 3 Nov 2007 (pg 201)
1001 - 27 Jan 2007 (pg 41) - Part Duex
Official 642 Edicts 642 Club Edicts are proclaimed for a variety of reasons, but they are mainly used to assign official titles to well-deserving members.
jad0110: Sir Jad 642 Club Banker (pg 60/#1484)
Nematocyst: Sir Nem Official Pollster (pg 105/#2606)
ARTiger: Sir ARTiger Official Ammo Tester (pg 107/#2669)
TEL: Sir CalcuTEL Official Tabulator (pg 109/#2709)
Lady Gunwife: Official Club Auditor (pg 113/#2817)
Headless : Official Club Cartographer,
Geographer, Google Admin (pg 122/#3037)
Vanzpp: 500th member of the 642 Club (pg 140/#3485)
jt1: Official Club Counter & Firearms Inspector (pg 148/#3677)
ugaarguy: Official K-Frame Club Ambassador (pg 152/#3797)
Old Fuff: Club Revolver Expert (pg 153/#3818)
Stephen A. Camp: Expert Tester/Evaluator (pg 153/#3818)
MassMark: Creator of our beloved title "642 Head"
DAdams: 642 Club Master Sergeant at Arms (pg 157/#3913)
JUSTBOB: Official 642 Club Crimson Trace Laser Expert (pg 184/#4593)
roundtop: 642nd member of the 642 Club (part 2/pg 21/#505)
Other Notable Things
Robert Mika (aka cheeseinwisconsin) posted to THR
(pg 106/#2634)
The official 642 Club Quadratic equation is
∑(((642 + CT + Mika) + Bianchi²) + 642 Club) = 642 Head
(pg 195/#4871)
http://www.the642club.com/ - will take you to the first post in the 642 Club.
Intro
This is the official 642 Club document. The main function of the 642 Club Blog of Knowledge is to provide club facts, summaries of important topics, and whatever else we decide. The ultimate goal here is to empower you to better use the 642 Club thread.
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